<text><span class="style10">extiles (3 of 4)</span><span class="style7"></span><span class="style10">Weaving</span><span class="style7">Two techniques are available for turning yarn into fabric: weaving and knitting. Traditionally knitting has been used for hosiery (including nylon stockings), for sweaters, and for women's dresses. Weaving is used to create bolts (rolls) of cloth, both for clothing and for furnishing fabrics.Hand looms have been in use since ancient times, but it was not until 1785 that the British industrialist Edmund Cartwright (1743-1823) invented a power loom, in which the shuttle was moved across the warp mechanically. In 1801 the Frenchman Joseph-Marie Jacquard(1752-1834) mechanized the weaving of complex fabrics by controlling the loom with a series of punched cards that allowed warp threads to be lifted and lowered in the correct sequence. The punched cards were linked together as a sequence, and it took many thousands of them for the most elaborate fabrics.The pattern of the weave can be altered to produce different effects. </span><span class="style19">Satin</span><span class="style7"> gets its glossy appearance because the warp threads are interwoven not with every weft thread, but with every fourth or fifth. In </span><span class="style19">damask</span><span class="style7">, the same technique is used, but places where the warp lies on top are alternated with places where the weft does, producing subtle variations of shading. </span><span class="style19">Twill weaves</span><span class="style7"> are used to produce gaberdine, serge and whipcord, and </span><span class="style19">pile weaves</span><span class="style7"> for corduroy, plush, velour and velvet. The pile in such fabrics is created by cutting some of the threads after weaving, so that they stand out vertically from the surface of the fabric.</span></text>
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<text><span class="style10">lthough modern looms are fully automated and electrically driven</span><span class="style7">, the basic weaving operations performed are the same in principle as in earlier looms.Two separate yarns are used, the warp and the weft. The </span><span class="style19">warp </span><span class="style7"> runs along the length of the cloth, while the </span><span class="style19">weft </span><span class="style7"> runs crosswise, alternately under and over the warp threads. The warp is mounted on a roller as wide as the bolt (roll) of cloth will be, and each warp thread passes through an eyelet at the midpoint of a fine wire called a </span><span class="style19">heddle</span><span class="style7">, all the heddles being supported in frames called </span><span class="style19">harnesses</span><span class="style7"> .As the harnesses are raised and lowered, they separate the warp threads, allowing the weft to pass through the gap created. The weft is carried by a hollow boat-shaped object called the </span><span class="style19">shuttle</span><span class="style7">. After each pass, the weft is beaten down by a hinged, comb-like device called the </span><span class="style19">reed</span><span class="style7">, so that the most recent weft thread is pressed close to the previously woven cloth.The weaving process can be elaborated almost infinitely, by varying the colors of the threads or by altering the pattern in which the yarns are interwoven.</span></text>
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<text>ΓÇó RUBBER AND PLASTICSΓÇó THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION</text>
